Southbound
It feels as though I stepped on Far Out years ago, 20th April seems too close to believe. Surely a product of the intense nature of our conception as a unit; Captain and vessel, every single day has been one to overcome together.
The early summer months were spent around the Monte Argentario region. The area hosts a small playground for it’s inhabitants that are inclined to take to the sea. Giglio, Giannutri, Ansedonia, Santo Stefano.. all wonderful spots littered with echoes of age old hedonism embodied by Roman Villas and the like. These Tuscan getaways hosted us for June and July, while the Tarantelli family swapped between their Tuscan haven and Far Out. The challenge was trying to bring Far Out up to my standard while being ready to receive guests and go on day/weekend trips. Thankfully, through the grace and humble nature of her owner, the job was never a burden; I was made to feel welcome and part of the family almost instantly.
The next chapter saw us venturing south. The island of Ponza was our first stop; in fact we first anchored under the smaller neighbouring island of Palmarola, entering on the night of the 29th of July to the silhouette of the island. My morning routine brought me up to the most spectacular surroundings; we were tucked into the southernmost bay of Palmarola and flanked by an immense cliff of twisted and exposed rock formations. The swathe of colours and patterns battled on, bursting through the cliff right down to the sea as though an electric pulse had run through the island. Though difficult to leave this setting, we ventured further toward Ponza after a late lunch.
Ponza’s landscape was even more dramatic than her smaller counterpart. We traversed the southernmost point where the Punta della Guardia lighthouse stood proud. Luckily we had clear depth right up to the island so we took advantage and hugged the coastline. The chalk-white jagged rocks dwarfed us as we turned the corner, perfectly timing the turn with the sunset as it burst through some of the peaks to light up our path, another spectacle of an island no doubt. The serene and wild coastline struck a contrast against the quite busy hectic little party port that buzzed with life; a safe haven for Italian tourists during the current pandemic, and a quick ferry ride from the mainland.
Our next stop was the tiny island pair of the Isole Pontine, an unsuspecting couple that lay 20 miles South and East of our position in Ponza. On the way, Panfilo described to me the ancient Roman harbour that was cut into the rock, used as a gulag of sorts by the Romans, much of it still intact and existing alongside the modern influences. Some research showed that the Island’s most noteworthy scene was that of Emperor Augustus banishing his daughter in 2 BC on account of her excessive adultery, I say! The smaller neighbouring island hosts an ominous Prison that overlooks Ventotene, just the sight of it brought a chill through the bones… if those walls could speak. We enjoyed a lovely dinner on land, guests and crew, and both Bubi and Panfilo regaled us with tales of Altiero Spinelli, a communist that was incarcerated in the hilltop prison, and the creator of the Ventotene Manifesto, which was pivotal in the eventual conception of a united Europe. A badge of honour for this little rock.
With the intention of ending up in the Eolian island of Panarea for a few days, we set sail once more and directed Far Out’s pointy blue nose South. I had had a phone call with Dad the day before, who reassured me that they were experiencing the same unbearable heat that we were, only less humid, and that they would change their itinerary for Far Out and Royal Tara to have a (somewhat planned) chance meet. We made a small pit stop in Capri for the guests to have lunch under the towering Faraglioni rock formation. Bellies full and sweating pints, we left Capri at our backs and motored into the night.
The 120 mile stretch was a breeze with no breeze, motoring all the way to Panarea with glassy-flat water and an incredible full moon to light up our path. Not a single boat in sight; we had the Tyrrhenian to ourselves. Moonrise, then sunrise, we were spoilt with two spectacular shows before turning the corner at Cala Junco to arrive on to our mooring buoy in Panarea where we would hang around for the next three days. Royal Tara slowly came in to the same bay after their lunch time swim. I think for the first time ever, the entire family were on Royal Tara, three generations of Calasciones enjoying a reunion in the Isole Eolie.
The next stop was the commercial port of Milazzo, where we dropped off our first group, then through the straits and down to Riposto to wait for the second group to board before venturing across the Ionian. A lava show from Mama Etna and some delicious meals in, we gave Far Out a bit of much needed TLC while we had power and water. Next stop: Greece.